August 04, 2020
An unconstructed blazer is a jacket that has no canvas, no fusing, no lining – except for the sleeves so you can get your arms in and out of the jacket easily – and little or no padding. It’s a soft, deconstructed jacket. Traditional suits and jackets are built with canvas (full or half) giving the front panels of the jacket structure. They also have lining inside the jacket hiding all the interior stitching and seams. The absence of the jacket lining is the most noticeable difference between a structured and an unconstructed suit.
An unconstructed jacket is great travel piece, a lighter weight and more casual layering piece.
As is often in the case of menswear, there is a wide spectrum of interpretation of styles, quality, bodies type and clothing needs. An unstructured jacket is no different. You may find one of these that looks lifeless, dull and has no shape (and be totally turned off). Whereas other jackets will still have a nicely constructed chest, shoulder and roll to the lapel.
I believe it’s important to work with your clothier for a couple reasons:
To see examples of his/her unconstructed jackets and see how it is manufactured.
Feel the fabric you want made into this make and if the weight of the fabric will hold up (for your body). Some lighter weight fabrics may not translate well.
Talk about the purpose of the jacket or suit and understand if unconstructed option is the best bet for your lifestyle and body type.
Come by my shop to see examples of unconstructed jackets as well as half lined and fully lined suits.
3188 East Indian School Rd
Phoenix, AZ 85016