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The world seems to slowly be coming back. Sports are back on and restaurants are semi open. While getting back to “normal” may not happen for a while, I wanted to bring some joy to your wardrobe and lift your spirits when it comes to what your wear. I’m offering a buy one get one 50% off sale on anything in-store or online (sorry not custom clothing or alterations). Polos, shorts, jeans, slacks, masks, accessories, and more. It’s a great time to update the polos you have been wearing this entire time during covid. You can also get some new pants to wear. Sure, wearing shorts these past 4 months have been great, however, pretty soon you are going to put some pants on. Stop by in store or shop online. Please share this sale with friends, family and coworkers. I appreciate the referrals and help!! Sale is good til August 16th, 2020.
Men today don’t want to think too much when it comes to what they wear. A lot of gentleman are adopting a “work uniform” and keep it very simple when getting ready. A lot of successful men dress this way. Such as Mark Zuckerburg, Barack Obama, Steve Jobs, and Dr. Dre.
Let’s talk about building the foundation for a good wardrobe. Whether you are starting a new career, getting out of college, or just looking to update your wardrobe, there are a few fundamentals like suits, shirts, and slacks that you should have. You can always pepper in more pieces on top of these, however, let’s start with the basics.
Let’s talk about building the foundation for a good wardrobe. Whether you are starting a new career, getting out of college, or just looking to update your wardrobe, there are a few fundamentals like suits, shirts, and slacks that you should have. You can always pepper in more pieces on top of these, however, let’s start with the basics.
Every man needs a good blue and white dress shirt. You want decent quality with a good collar and a shirt that is tailored to fit you well. Both of these can be worn all year round and can be worn with slacks or jeans and dressed up with a suit jacket.
Men you need to have at least one suit in your wardrobe. I would suggest you go for a good gray or blue suit, keep it classic and well-tailored with a notched lapel. The key to this suit is not about how much money you spent or the designer brand name inside. It’s all about how it fits YOU. This suit needs to be tailored to your frame (your body). You can gain or lose up to 25 lbs and have this suit tailored to you. You don’t need to go out and buy a brand new one in 5 years if this still fits. When deciding on what suit to get, make sure it’s the best quality you can afford and take care of it. The key to the suit is it’s timeless style (design) and color. Pick something that is 100% wool and hang it on a nice hanger. I would stay away from trendy colors, patterns and super slim fit suits. Well-tailored, sure! You want to look at this suit and still want to wear it in 5 years.
Every guy needs a good pair of dark dressy jeans. Darker denim is perfect because you can dress it up with a sport coat or dress down with sneakers and a polo. Even though they are jeans you still want to make sure the fit is tailored, and the hem is correct for your inseam. You want to be able to wear these jeans all 12 months a year and again pick the best quality denim you can afford. It might take you some time to shop around and find the right brand that fits you. Be patient. When you find this right brand and fit, you can keep buying this brand in other washes.
In addition to the jeans you need a good pair of slacks, again I would suggest a good gray or blue. You can dress these up and down just like with the denim, go or casual with a polo shirt to dress them down or just wear a blazer and button up with them. If you want to add another color I suggest a light khaki, this color is perfect for spring or summer. If you have a pair of slacks in your wardrobe but they don’t fit right, take to a tailor (come see me) to have them altered.
In addition to the jeans you need a good pair of slacks, again I would suggest a good gray or blue. You can dress these up and down just like with the denim, go or casual with a polo shirt to dress them down or just wear a blazer and button up with them. If you want to add another color I suggest a light khaki, this color is perfect for spring or summer. If you have a pair of slacks in your wardrobe but they don’t fit right, take to a tailor (come see me) to have them altered.
Those are a few tips to get you started on building your wardrobe, if you need help please come visit me at:
Q. Contrary
3188 East Indian School Rd.
Phoenix, AZ 85016
You can even send me an email (mary@qcontrary.com) with any questions you might have or set up a consultation with me.
Good Luck!!
An unconstructed blazer is a jacket that has no canvas, no fusing, no lining – except for the sleeves so you can get your arms in and out of the jacket easily – and little or no padding. It’s a soft, deconstructed jacket. Traditional suits and jackets are built with canvas (full or half) giving the front panels of the jacket structure. They also have lining inside the jacket hiding all the interior stitching and seams. The absence of the jacket lining is the most noticeable difference between a structured and an unconstructed suit.
An unconstructed jacket is great travel piece, a lighter weight and more casual layering piece.
As is often in the case of menswear, there is a wide spectrum of interpretation of styles, quality, bodies type and clothing needs. An unstructured jacket is no different. You may find one of these that looks lifeless, dull and has no shape (and be totally turned off). Whereas other jackets will still have a nicely constructed chest, shoulder and roll to the lapel.
I believe it’s important to work with your clothier for a couple reasons:
To see examples of his/her unconstructed jackets and see how it is manufactured.
Feel the fabric you want made into this make and if the weight of the fabric will hold up (for your body). Some lighter weight fabrics may not translate well.
Talk about the purpose of the jacket or suit and understand if unconstructed option is the best bet for your lifestyle and body type.
Come by my shop to see examples of unconstructed jackets as well as half lined and fully lined suits.
Q. Contrary
3188 East Indian School Rd
Phoenix, AZ 85016
602.301.6987
I often get asked what are the basics every gentleman should have when building a wardrobe. That is a big topic and today I’d like to chat about what dress shirts every man should have in his closet. If you’re wearing suits 5 days a week or if you don’t wear suits at all, I feel like there are a couple of basic go-to shirts every guy needs to have. Whether you’re 22 or 70, these are classic shirts you can wear to work, parties, dinners, weddings, funerals, etc. Pretty much any occasion. The four shirts I’m going to cover are classic white, classic blue, purple/pink and a patterned shirt.
White is a no brainer. With the white shirt, I definitely suggest picking one with a collar that frames your face. It can be a spread collar, a button down, a widespread/euro spread or point collar. I’d suggest you pick a collar that frames your face and compliments your business. If you work in a conservative field, I’d suggest a standard spread or button down. Nothing too modern, flashy or small. Pick a good classic white shirt with a collar you can wear 7 days a week to almost any function. Keep it simple. If you wear a lot of suits, maybe buy 2 or 3 of these for your wardrobe. When you’re picking a fabric, make sure that you’re not picking something that’s too sheer or thin. People don’t want a see your nipples or chest hair. Maybe you like to show that off, however, for business, I’d highly suggest not. You can wear that sheer shirt to the clubs or going out. Not for business. If you’re in the warmer climates, I’d something a little thinner fabric and not so heavy. If you’re a bigger or muscular guy with a larger frame, pick a fabric with more texture and body to it. You can pick up 2 or 3 shirts depending on how often you wear shirts. I’d also suggest you buy better quality for shirts you will wear more often. I recommend this because they will last longer. Especially in collars and cuffs, that’s where they usually get worn from friction and fraying because they rub against everything.
The Classic Blue Shirt:The next color is blue. When picking a basic everyday blue shirt stick with a lighter shade and something with texture or detail in the fabric. Basic blues are great and necessary but can be pedestrian. Look at the weave and texture of the fabric. Here is where I’d suggest something with interest in the fabric. I’d pick a collar that’s suitable for your face and your frame – just like I mentioned above with the white shirt. If you’re not wearing a lot of ties, get a shirt with a hidden button-down collar so that it all stays in place. I’d suggest starting with 1 or 2 blue shirts. You can always add more. I don’t suggest buying 5 or 6 of a shirt when you haven’t worn it. If you end up not liking the shirt, then you are stuck with 5 or 6 bad fitting shirts. Building a wardrobe will take some work and effort in the beginning to find what brand, fit, and quality you like. Don’t fret and just keep note of where you got them. Luckily, they should have a label in the shirt somewhere to help. When I make shirts for a new client, many times I only make him or her 1 or 2 shirts to start with. I get the fit and fabric exactly how the client likes it and then I design him more. Building a wardrobe won’t happen overnight. Wear the clothing and slowly add to it.
The next color I’d suggest is a “fashion color” like purple or pink. Purple isn’t really a fashion color (anymore), however, it’s a great basic that brightens up your wardrobe/outfit without being too bold. This is a great option for Sundays to church, to parties, weddings, or just every day to the office. I’d encourage a softer shade of purple or pink, maybe something with texture, and, again, same comment about the collar (see white paragraph above). If you haven’t worn a purple shirt, it’s time.
A Patterned Shirt:The fourth and final basic shirt you should have in your wardrobe is something with a micro or classic pattern. I’d suggest a check or plaid but keep it simple. 1 or 2 colors in the pattern and nothing larger than a half an inch repeat. I’d suggest keeping it simple because:
– You can easily match a tie to it (if needed)
– It can be worn under most any solid suit or sport coat
– Pick a pattern people won’t remember. You want a shirt you can wear week after week and most people won’t remember if you wore a white or blue shirt but at times do remember if you wore a bold pattern.
I’m suggesting a simple/micro pattern so it blends into your look. These basic shirts I’m recommending won’t turn heads and can be worn day after day. It’s part of your uniform. Yes, I know that sounds boring, however, the jacket or suit you wear can have style and personality. The tie or accessories can be fashionable and turn heads. These 4 basic wardrobe building shirts should be classic looks that won’t go out of style.
If you have been wearing the same white or blue shirt for the last 4 or more years, it’s time to freshen up your assortment. One point I can’t stress enough is just get 1 or 2 when you are building your wardrobe. You can always add more when needed. Many store push deals where buy 2 get one free. This is great but only if you have worn the shirts before. Be patient. Building a wardrobe could take a season or 2.
I sell these classic shirts at my store and I’m happy to custom make you any of these 4 shirt types. Call or email to schedule your personal fitting.
Q. Contrary
Phoenix, AZ 85016
I recently was interviewed by a local photographer, Jenny Dupuis, and featured in her blog. I was honored and had to share. I met Jenny at a networking event and when she asked to partner together, I knew I had to. She has great taste, style and her photographs catch moments that are real. She is laid back and fun to spend time with. I enjoy supporting other female business owners and excited to see her business grow.
I had a groom, Arivand, coming in for his suit fitting and asked Jenny to capture the experience. Helping a groom pick his attire for his wedding day is a big responsibility. He/she will look at these pictures for the rest of their life. Brides, historically, get all the attention and grooms get left out. Not today. Grooms are coming to me with pictures, looks and ideas on how they want to dress. At times, they outshine their better half. When Jenny asked to share my thoughts and advice for helping grooms decide what to wear on their wedding day, I was happy to. Enjoy my interview and tips on how to prepare for your wedding day. Thank you, Jenny, for the opportunity and capturing Arivand’s fitting. I’m so honored.
Edited for clarity. Photos from a fitting appointment with Mary’s client, Aravind.
Q: Let’s get right into it. What advice would you give to those looking for wedding day attire?
A: I’d ask them what they want to wear. How they want to dress, what their favorite color is and the image they want to represent. What’s the style of their wedding? Is it super formal? Is it more casual? Where is it located? And really, what do they want? That’s where I start.
So, it’s like a conversation with them.
Yes. Get to know their style, get to know what they wear. What they want and just kind of get a feel for what they feel comfortable in. What makes them feel sexy and awesome and bold and dashing — and then go from there and show them ideas. If they never wear a suit, put them in something basic. If they are big on suits, definitely some more flair. Black tie, more tuxedo, edgy. And get to know the couple too.
Q: Are there any “say yes to the dress” feelings when it comes to your clients finally finding their attire? In other words, what emotions are showing when they put on their suit?
A: Oh absolutely! The big thing is the fit. They just want to look: small waist, big shoulders. They want to feel like they are making a presence. Sometimes you just show them a (fabric) swatch and they are like “ooh!” and they get excited. But then the moment when the suit comes in and they try it on, like Aravind when he tried it on, he was like, “this is what I wanted” and you just see the smile on his face. So yeah, it’s awesome. And then, you can tell they feel great and excited to wear it. You know, it’s cool. Many times, people don’t think about the groom, it’s always the bride, the bride and the dress … which is important … but grooms get left out. And you know, it’s so important. What they wear should complement the person who they are marrying.
Q: Is it better to rent or buy?
A: Buy. Definitely buy. Now-a-days there’s so many great options where you can buy an inexpensive suit for the same price as renting — and, one, you’ll have it fit to you. Two, it’s not going to look like 100 people wore it, it’s going to look nice, clean and crisp. You’re investing this money and if anything, you can always wear the pants again. Right? It’s your wedding day, let’s just get real. Brides are spending a lot of money on their dress. They don’t have to (spend a lot of money), they can, but I think it’s so important that you’re not wearing something somebody else already wore on your wedding day. Think of pictures, think of all that stuff, you want it to fit perfectly and with rentals, you can’t always do a ton of alterations. There’s so many different suit brands and stores to shop in. But yes, if you can’t do custom you should be able to find something that fits your body. Even just a little investment like, do it. I totally encourage it.
Q: How can they stand out?
A: Definitely color. Color of the suit. Maybe it’s a lighter blue and they are all in navy or it’s a lighter grey and they are all in dark grey. Or it’s black and they are in something different. So, pick a color where you stand out. For embellishments, your tie. I do encourage to not go too crazy on the tie because you want people to focus on your face but something that compliments the look. Boutonniere, I’ve seen some people in weddings recently that do print shirts or colored shirts — so it’s just a little more edgy, more party, it’s fun.
Q: How can they stay true to themselves, or in contrast, feel elevated?
A: So, I think it’s a couple of things: how you accessorize it — pick a fun pair of shoes. Pick a styled shirt or a tie or a handkerchief even that you would never normally wear. Have it fit to you, so many grooms never wear suits and they are more casual and they just think “uh, a suit is uncomfortable” — well, find something that really fits so you feel comfortable in it and you will look great. And then your grooming, your hair. It’s not always just the suit. Trim your beard get a facial, get a professional shave — and don’t do it a week before your wedding do it six months before, try it, and then do it again a week or two before the wedding, pamper yourself. This is a time where you are preparing for a new chapter in your life which is so, so exciting. Everyone is going to be looking at you and like you want your hair to be great, you want your skin to be great, you want the right glasses, you want the right beard — whatever it is. Even get a new cologne or maybe wear like a family heirloom, like your grandfather’s cufflinks. Or like a watch from your dad or your mom or whoever it is — add things to your outfit that people notice that add sentimental meaning but that really make you feel good.
Q: Some people don’t like to feel “constructed”, being in a suit, how do you combat that? In other words, what are the alternatives to being full-on?
A: They could maybe not wear the jacket and just wear the vest. Some grooms feel more comfortable not wearing a tie or a bow tie. I have a lot of grooms who love their cowboy boots and they wear their cowboy boots with their suit or their slacks. They could wear a flannel shirt with like a jean jacket but they have to find something they find comfortable in that the person that they are marrying likes. You don’t have to wear skinny stuff if you aren’t a skinny person. You can wear a pair of jeans or darker slacks or cotton pants or linen slacks if that’s what you’re more comfortable in. Just, you know, whatever you do just have it tailored to you, like little alterations, so you’re not totally investing a ton of money into a formal suit or tuxedo — but you still look like you put in a little effort.
Q: What trends are you seeing?
A: A lot of color. Blues are getting brighter. Pinks, tuxedo jackets, white jackets. Even in the fabric there’s a lot of texture or detail. Lapels are different colors. So, if you’re doing a tuxedo jacket with a satin lapel maybe is black or red or pink or ivory or something a little different than the traditional. Printed shirts, printed and colored shirts — I’ve been seeing a that a lot. Those have been more for casual weddings, outdoorsy weddings.
Q: Do you preach any dos or don’ts?
A: Do wear your shoes a lot. If you get brand new shoes, wear the shoes a lot before the wedding day, break them in. Do buy a tux or a suit, don’t rent. Do have this done about four months before your wedding, don’t wait until the last minute — especially with your groomsmen/wedding party, they will take forever and something will always happen. Do pick something you want to wear. This is more individual-based, but don’t wear a bow tie if you are not a bow tie kind of person — unless you’re wearing a tuxedo. If you say you’re going to lose a lot of weight, don’t buy something just because you’re going to lose the weight to get down into it, buy something that fits you and you can always have it tailored down. Do try your suit on a week or two before your wedding just to make sure it still fits. Do think about rehearsal dinner, like what are you wearing to rehearsal dinner what are you wearing to engagement pictures if you’re doing a lot of photographs. Doesn’t have to be a full three-piece suit but everyone’s seeing those pictures.
Q: What is the average cost of a custom suit?
A: You can spend $1,000. I can make something for $850. Decent quality from myself is around $1,200-$1,500 and you should probably spend that amount anywhere. You can go to these online resources that say custom, I’ve never used them but I’ve had customers use and love them — some of them have used them and don’t love them. But for custom you should be looking at spending around $1,000. Click here for info on my custom wedding suits.
Q: Is it a separate cost for alterations?
A: Yes — if you buy a suit off the rack, and it doesn’t fit in the center then usually it’s about $35 to take the sides in. If the sleeves are too long that’s about $30-$35. If the pants are big, you’re looking at about maybe, $30, $40, $50 — all depends how much work. If you’re going to buy something off the rack separates are good. But, you know, just shop around until you find that brand that fits your frame, versus being like “I have to wear Hugo Boss” or “I have to wear Calvin Klein” or “I have to wear Dior”, when you’re not that fit model or their (ideal) customer — so just keep shopping.
Q: In your experience, what is the biggest challenge when it comes to finding what they’re wearing?
A: Time. I think people underestimate how long it takes. Or they have these expectations that, I don’t know if I want to say this, they can find something super cheap … but then they end up looking super cheap. Don’t be afraid to invest a little bit of money into yourself.
Q: How to combat the challenge of time?
A: Definitely start 4-5 months before your wedding to shop and get something made. Even if you just buy it and you keep it until a month before the wedding and then have it tailored. It will take a month to make the suit if you do custom and even to order it, sometimes it’s not there. It might be sold out. And then seasonally, if you are getting married in the fall maybe start looking in the fall (the year before, if you’re able) so you have fall looks because then when you start shopping in the spring time it’s different sort of trend looks in the department stores.
Q: Are there any fads to avoid?
A: That whole “Dumb and Dumber” look. Ruffled shirts and pleated pants. I wouldn’t get something that looks like a business suit either. If you have something in your closet that’s got pinstripes or a really bold plaid that looks more business-y than a party, I would stay away from that. In a couple years, color might be gone — just something to think about.
Q: How can they add subtle personality?
A: Socks, all the groomsmen/wedding party can wear fun socks — you can do fun pictures like that. Stitching colors, button colors. Shoes, they can always pick out their shoes. Some want to wear sneakers, some want to wear Chuck Taylors, some of them wear a dress shoe or dress boot or cowboy boots — that’s a great way to add personality. How they groom themselves, beard or no beard. Mustache or no mustache. Bolo tie versus a long tie.
Q: How can they fit the theme of a wedding?
A: If you do black tie, obviously a tuxedo but there’s a way to jazz it up with different color or texture in the actual fabric. If it’s a downtown/city wedding, more super sleek suit, maybe a little shine to it. If it’s an outdoorsy wedding I’d definitely do a three-piece suit so he can take the jacket off and just wear the vest. Beach wedding, definitely no tie, handkerchief, a jacket that’s linen, textured, lightweight, breathable. You just have to think of what you would wear to a party in your location and just elevate it a bit.
Q: How can they find the right type of suit for their body type?
A: They just have to shop around. I mean I know because I’ve been studying fits and designers for a very long time — it’s my whole career. What you can do is if you see someone that has your same frame in a suit, ask them where they bought it. If you have a best friend that always wears suits, ask them where they shop. Stores like H&M and Zara are very slim, young. Brooks Brothers is very traditional. You can kind of tell by what they sell in a store and who shops there.
Q: Ties? Bow ties, skinny ties. Let talk ties.
A: If you have chubby face, I would not encourage a bow tie because it will make your face look wider. The shape of a wide bow tie is better for someone who has a longer face. Long ties, most grooms usually wear that because they’re more comfortable in it. If you have like a super long face sometimes bow ties are nicer because it complements the shape. So, then the width of your tie should be proportional to the width of your lapel on your jacket. For example, if your lapels are very narrow, you should do a narrow tie. If your lapels are really wide like Tom Ford, then you need that really wide tie. Usually, lapels are 3/3.75 inches wide and a normal tie will do just fine. It’s all proportional.
Q: Fabrics for breathability?
A: First, there’s always natural fiber. Wool is a natural fiber, cotton is a natural fiber, linen is a natural fiber. Natural fibers breathe better. You can buy a wool suit that’s super light-weight, not like chunk wool — like your parka. I do a lot of linen blends for my beach weddings. So like wool, silk, linen blends or wool and linen blends because the linen makes it really light weight as well. Polyester is a synthetic fabric it’s not breathable, even wool/poly blends are going to be very warm. Another thing for my clients is that if they tell me they sweat a lot or they have an outdoor wedding, I don’t line the jacket or I half-line the jacket. Lining is the fabric inside the back of the suit that is usually just a synthetic like a polyester or a rayon and that doesn’t breathe, it actually keeps air trapped. If you remove it, it helps them stay a little cooler.
Q: How can they coordinate with the groomsmen/wedding party?
A: Many times a groom has a hard time expecting them (their wedding party) to spend over a $1,000 on their suit, so what I encourage them to do is pick a day where they go by themselves, find what they want, and then coordinate the others by saying “hey we’re all going here” or send them a link “hey here’s the suit we need to order” or “hey, give me your measurements and your money I will order it for you” — just to make sure that they get it and they all get the same thing. Or you make an event out of it, go to the store together, give the sales person a heads up. You can bring them to my store or another tailor to have them tailored to have them fit better. Then go grab beers after or go get lunch together. Also, I would encourage the groom to buy all of the socks for their groomsmen/wedding party and then bring them to the wedding for them. I would also encourage the groom to buy all the ties or hankies and bring them the day of the wedding — don’t expect to give them to your groomsmen/wedding party and they will remember to bring it because they won’t. Any sort of accessory, buy it, put it in a box, bring it the day of the wedding — you don’t have to worry about them forgetting them. Same thing with shoes, make it simple, here’s a sample of a black shoe or a brown shoe — just tell them “this is what I want you to get”, and give them a couple options, because they are definitely going to wear those again. Maybe they already have something in their closets that fits — just be very specific.
IF YOU’RE IN THE PHOENIX AREA, CHECK OUT MARY’S STORE IN ARCADIA OR VISIT ONLINE AT Q. CONTRARY.
Q. CONTRARY
3188 EAST INDIAN SCHOOL ROAD
PHOENIX, AZ 85016
602-301-6987
New men's cotton shorts have arrived in store. They are super soft, have a bit of stretch and are comfortable. I have them in an assortment of colors from tan to taupe to grey to cobalt and my favorite - pistachio! This light green color is my favorite. Don't be afraid to wear green or any colorful shorts. We all need some some color to brighter our days.
If you have your favorite short but they have been worn out, here is a great pair to replace those with. They are soft and comfortable, they will feel like you have had them for a while.
Stay cool this summer!!
Shorts are in season and why not wear something bold and bright. Love this new short from TravisMathew!! It's called their 2.0 short but really it's just like their Beck short. It's one of their most popular fabrics and shorts. My clients live in thie short all summer! It's light weight, breathable, comfortable and doesn't affect their golf game. Are you looking for a comfortable short but not baggy? Try this 2.0 short or any of TravisMathew's Beck shorts. Do you have large thighs? Try going up a waist size. Your size maybe snug but swing by my shop to try on in person if needed. Stay cool everyone!!
I am obsessed with the 1/2 zips from Greyson! Their fabrics are soft and cozy. This new Arctic White with a soft green allover print is their latest quarter zip and you have to add this to your wardrobe. You can't find this on their online store because they are all sold out. I wish I ordered more for my shop. This white color is clean and crisp and great to wear when golfing when it's chilly this summer.
Here are 3 reasons why you will love ths quarter zip:
1 - the fabric is super soft and light weight.
2 - the clean crisp white color has a light green allover print. Its subtle but still edgy.
3. I especially love how their quarter zips do not have any rib trim. Rib trims can stretch out and look sloppy after wearing for a while. Instead at the sleeve cuffs there is a piece of elastic so when you push your sleeves up, they stay. It's genius and comfortable.
If white isn't your color, maybe think again. But not to worry, I have quarter zips from Greyson available in navy and charcoal grey.
New Pre-Fall Greyson Clothiers polos have arrived. I'm obsessed!! They are stylish and cool and will turn heads! I only bought a couple so get them while they last. The fabric is soft and comfortable.
